Links provided are for reference only and can be substituted to suit specific needs or price points.
Temperature and humidity measurement tools.
Temperature gun. Most important temperature measurement tool to dial in basking temps.
Weather station with remote sensors. Will help to keep an eye on and adjust ambient temperatures and humidity throughout the enclosure range. 3 sensors are enough to monitor cool, middle and hot corners.
Smart temp/humidity monitoring and reporting. Can be DIY’d using Arduino or Raspberry PI systems.
Heating, lighting and UVB devices.
Flood halogen light bulbs. The most efficient and economical way to provide basking spot, lighting and additional heat. Best used as chain of lower wattage bulbs to lower risk of burning, reduce footprint, spread the heat evenly throughout entire monitor lizard body, better flexibility and control, minimal impact on humidity. Should be thick walled and lensed to evenly spread light and heat.
Ceramic heat emitters. Good for night temperature support. V. melinus are diurnal species and don’t require light at night. Emitters run hot and should be either completely inaccessible or only work at full dark, lights out, when monitor is not active.
UVB light bulbs. Two good options are available. Mercury-vapor light bulbs that combine heat output and UVB. Can be used for basking or additional temperature support. T5 HO fluorescent light bulbs provide usable UVB for up to 3 ft and have good coverage. All UVB lights have to be replaced per manufacturer's guidelines, as UVB output is reduced with time.
Lamp holders. Porcelain or ceramic to support constant prolonged heat.
Equipment to avoid: thin-walled incandescent bulbs - will explode on contact with water; coil-type compact UVB bulbs - had health threatening issues in the past; spot halogen bulbs - concentrated bright beam; space heaters - destroy humidity; heating rocks - not necessary, may harm the animal; undertank heaters - mostly not necessary and not effective in large enclosures.
Temperature and humidity controllers, automation devices.
Conventional on/off thermostats. Good for using with heat pads, so mostly useless for monitor enclosure unless you have some areas with heat pad temperature support. Potentially can be used with ceramic heat emitters(need to confirm this claim).
Dimming thermostats. Useful with dimmable halogen lights. Mostly used with support lights and in case basking spot is equipped with chain of lights can be used on sides to finer temperature control. At least one basking spot light section has to be off thermostat and dialed for specific temperature.
Pulse proportional thermostats. The most advanced ones. Spyder Robotics Herpstat is designed with multiple settings and schedules. Mostly used to control ceramic heat emitters and in case of Spyder Robotics Herpstat can also be equipped with humidity probes to control misting systems.
Smart power outlets, timers. Used with various light and temperature sources, including UVB to create simple light schedule or more advanced daylight change simulation. Smart wifi-enabled power outlets will provide you with ability to run flexible schedules, power consumption reports and remote control. Require servers with software to operate.
MistKing. Arguably the best readily available and simple to setup misting system on the market. Flexible and reliable, can be run manually or automated with humidity sensing device or timer.
DIY. Similar to MistKing performance can be achieved at lower cost using parts and pumps sourced separately online or at home improvement stores.
Water feature equipment.
Reservoirs. Aquariums and plastic tubs of adequate size. Whatever suits your enclosure design.
Filters. Filtration and water movement. Most commonly used are canister filters placed outside of enclosure. Used with mechanical sponges and biological media in their baskets. If biological denitrifying media is used, water has to either be dechlorinated or pre-filtered with RO system.
RO systems. Cheap and effective source of clean filtered water for animal and human consumption. If you have RO/DI unit, DI section has to be disconnected, as we don’t need deionized water for this purpose.
Heaters. To keep water within set temperature. Preferably equipped with thermostats. Could either be an in-line heater to attach to canister filter outlet plumbing or in-water heater, in which case it should be shatterproof and not made from glass.